Raise a glass as Canadian wines come of age

Canadian wines made headlines this year when a Chardonnay from Ontario winery Le Clos Jordanne bested vintages from France and California in a tasting billed as “The Judgment of Montreal” by Cellier magazine. The victory underlined that Canadian wines can compete with the world’s best, and are well worth discovering from coast to coast.

Le Clos Jordanne is located on the Niagara Peninsula, a region whose winemaking reputation has attracted investments from celebrities such as Dan Aykroyd and Mike Weir to create their own labels. Distinctive Ontario wines are also emerging out of other regions on the Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Island, as well as Prince Edward County.

For a taste of Ontario’s best, try Cabernet Franc reds, crisp Rieslings and iconic icewines.

Production is on the rise in B.C.

Wine is booming in British Columbia as well. The Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys continue to produce some of Canada’s top vintages, with unique climates and soils creating fine whites and Bordeaux-style reds.

Supple Merlots have become a B.C. staple, along with whites from the Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc grapes, as well as icewines.

Eastern Canada’s distinct wines

In Nova Scotia, wineries are scattered through the Annapolis, LaHave River and Bear River Valleys, and the Malagash Peninsula. Look for French hybrids such as Marechal Foch and Seyval Blanc, and specialties such as the red Leon Millot and the white L’Acadie Blanc, a good match for Nova Scotia seafood. Best vintages: 2005, 2007. And wine enthusiasts should take any opportunity to sample offerings from Quebec’s young wine industry, centred in the Eastern Townships and Monteregie regions, southeast of Montreal. These include little-seen varieties such as Vandal Cliche, Frontenac, and Geisenheim, as well as award-winning icewines. The only letdown: most are only sold within the province. Best vintage: 2005.

Learning about wine can be as pleasurable as tasting it. Your provincial liquor control board may offer wine appreciation courses. And this time of year is ideal for touring wineries during harvest — plan to make a day of it.